¡Esta ciudad no tiene madre!
Plaza Jardin Centenario 12
Colonia Villa Coyoacán
Tel: 5554 1213 / 5554 2896
An iconic cantina, Los Danzantes has become a favourite amongst Mexicans looking to have lunch with family or amongst friends. Cantinas are usually perfect for this because aside from being great places to eat, they are also fantastic for drinking. So as the meal comes to an end, the drinking begins, and it doesn't really stop. If you do come for a spot of liquor, make sure you try some of the wide-ranging mescals they have on offer here.
Quesadillas at the market
Higuera, corner of Caballo Calco
A hole in the wall but right in the heart of Coyoacán, the quesadillas here are like nothing you will find elsewhere in the city. For a start, they are fried. They also have a variety of ingredients you won't easily find elsewhere, and they aren't at all expensive. There are a number of stands that operate out of here, and they are all good but have a go at all of them and see if there is one that takes your fancy more than another. On weekends too, you will also find pozole, which is a soup with pre-Hispanic origins made with corn and usually accompanied with shredded meat.
Jardin del Pulpo
Mercado 89 Coyoacán between Malintzin and Allende
Tel: 5339 5708
A classic family venue, the seafood served here is some of the freshest and plentiful around. The tostadas are big enough for two people while the main courses are huge and should not be eaten alone. Service is swift and friendly and the seating is all outdoor. Make sure you try a ceviche or a coctel de camaron (shrimp marinated in tomato, onions and herbs), and the tostadas, of course.
Miguel Angel de Quevedo 687
Tel: 5659 5759 / 5659 4447
Part of the slow food movement, El Tajin aims to showcase Mexican food with inflections of pre-Hispanic influence. The place is very elegant, and you're likely to encounter businessmen having lunch there but it is also child friendly, with massive grounds in which they can play. Dishes that stand out are the rolled chicken breast with hoja santa and smothered in mole as well as the mixed starter, which includes a variety of Mexican finger foods.
Centenario 180, between Berlin and Viena
Tel: 5554 5996
By phone only and really only worth it for serious foodies, the tamales here are special not only because they also subscribe to the slow food movement but also because the tamales are all home made to perfection. If your quest is for an outstanding tamal, you're likely to find it here but as mentioned, call beforehand.
Merendero Las Lupitas
Plaza Santa Catarina 4, corner with Francisco Sosa
5554 3353 / 5554 1345
If your curious about how different Mexican food is from one part of the country to another, this small, very unpretentious restaurant serves good old-fashioned Mexican cuisine from the north of the country with a menu that changes depending on time of day. You'll notice how the tortillas are usually made with wheat instead of corn as well as the focus on dried meat, like machaca, in many of their dishes. For breakfast they have the classic machaca, served with eggs and wheat tortillas. For lunch and dinner, they have gorditas made with wheat on a griddle and stuffed with meat or tamales, if you do want something less northern. Highly recommended are also the burritos, and the enchiladas; the latter made with corn.